The following safety cautions:
- Be aware of your electronics. Don't work on your printer while it is plugged in or turned on.
- Be aware when you heat up your new hotend not to burn yourself on the heater block nozzle or heater cartridge.
- The standard Titan Aero is capable of printing up to 285°C, do not exceed these temperatures unless you have replaced the thermistor cartridge with a PT100, the aluminium heater block with a Plated copper heater block, and the Brass nozzle for a Plated copper, Hardened steel or Nozzle X.
- The firmware modification is not optional it is a mandatory step,
- Make sure you have ordered and received the correct voltage heater and fan to match the power supply of your printer. All of our current heater cartridges should have the voltage and wattage laser engraved on the cartridge.
- Connecting 12v parts to a 24v power supply can result in overheating, component damage, or fire. If you are unsure double check the rating on your power supply.
- Your HotEnd and your printer are your responsibility. We cannot be held responsible for damages caused by the use, misuse or abuse of our products.
1. Screw the nozzle into the heater block, ensure this is done from the side with 3 holes otherwise the assembly will fail later on.
The above image shows the same step from different perspectives.
2. Screw in the V6 HeatBreak, make sure the assembly is only finger tight at this point in time. Aim to have the top of the HeatBreak flush with the top surface of the HeaterBlock.
Before moving onto the next step check that the nozzle and break are in the correct position as per the above images.
If the nozzle is fastened up against the HeaterBlock at this stage you will run a significant risk of not creating a seal during the hot tightening process which will lead to molten plastic leaking from the assembly.
3. Slide the thermistor into the HeaterBlock fastening it with an M3 grub screw.
Be careful not to over tighten as you will risk crushing the internal glass bead.
4. Slide in the HeaterCartridge and fasten with the M3 Dome head screw.
Deformation of the HeaterBlock is to be expected and ensures good surface area contact for efficient thermal transfer.
Before installing the heater cartridge it’s a good idea to double-check you are using the correct heater for the power supply you are using. The cartridge should be engraved with both the voltage and wattage, but it’s still worth double-checking with a multimeter:
- A 12V 30W heater cartridge will read between 4.2 - 5.7 Ω.
- A 12V 40W heater cartridge will read between 3.1 - 3.8 Ω.
- A 24V 30W heater cartridge will read between 16.7 - 22.6 Ω.
- A 24V 40W heater cartridge will read between 12.3 - 15.1 Ω.
If your heater cartridge is reading out of specification contact
email@example.com, do not attempt to heat up the heater cartridge if the reading is unexpected.
5. Slide the silicone sock onto the HeaterBlock,
The V6 HotSide is now complete.
6. Fasten the M3 x grubscrew, leave a small gap between the pinion gear and the motor face to prevent rubbing. You can adjust the final alignment later in relation to the hobb gear.
For optimal performance, we recommend the use of our compact but powerful motor with the Titan Aero, however, any NEMA 17 motor's can be used with varying levels of performance.
7. Fasten the Titan body and bracket to the motor using an M3 x 8 dome head screw.
8. Insert the short end of the titan hobb gear into the bearing in the black housing. if the face of the black gear isn't flush with the face of the pinion gear undo the grub screw slightly and readjust until flush then fasten again.
If the pinion gear is mounted too high you will risk pinching the idler arm against the heat sink which will cause excessive friction.
If the pinion gear is mounted too low it will not make full contact with the Hobb gear which risks causing uneven wear.
9. Screw the M4 nut all the way onto the M4 Screw or Thumbscrew.
Push the spring over the threaded part of the screw. The nut will eventually let you adjust the tension on your extruder by travelling down the screw and compressing the spring.
Position the other end of the spring on the little bump on the idler lever.
The screw will slot into the nut-channel in the extruder body, and the idler arm will slip onto the motor shaft.
Do not compress the spring without the Titan Aero sink fastened, If you do tension the spring at this stage you will risk it shooting across the room. If this happens you can order replacement parts here.
10. Apply thermal paste to the long section of the HeatBreak only.
Do not apply the paste to the hot (short) section of the HeatBreak.
If you have run out of thermal paste or are performing maintenance replacement paste can be purchased here. Alternatively, any CPU thermal paste can be used.
11. If it isn't already pressed, press the bearing into the Titan Aero sink
12. Screw the HotSide into the HeatSink and tighten by hand.
Wipe off any excess thermal paste and wash your hands (especially before eating)
13. Cut a 23mm length of PTFE and insert it fully into the top of the HeatBreak.
To reduce the possibility of jams, ensure that both ends of the PTFE are cut squarely and the ends are not deformed, we recommend using a sharp knife rather than scissors for this.
Slide the filament guide over the protruding PTFE. The flat side of the guide should be flat with the back of the lid.
Ensure that the guide sits flush against the Aero sink. it is preferable to get the tubing too short, rather than too long.
13.1. For 2.85mm filament simply slide on the filament guide, and hold it in place when pushing the lid on the Titan body. The flat side of the guide should be flat with the back of the lid.
14. Screw the 3 longer M3 x 30mm screws through the heatsink and into the motor.
It's important not to over tighten the screw that goes through the pinion gear, for this reason, we have added a drop of thread locker to one of the screws this one is to be used on the top right-hand hole, accompanied by a shake-proof washer.
If you over tighten this screw you risk permanent damage to the bearing and it may fail.
15. Fasten the smaller M3 x 25mm screw into the bottom right-hand hole.
16. Try to rotate the large acetal gear to see if it moves smoothly.
If it's hard to rotate, check the position of the steel pinion gear, it may be too far forward. Adjust it so that it's flush with the front face of the acetal gear and try again.
If this doesn't solve the issue, then the screw with the shake-proof washer on it may have been over tightened. If loosening this screw allows the acetal gear to run smoothly then the screw has been overtightened and permanent damage may have been caused to the bearing; seek replacement bearings if this is the case.
17. Check to make sure the gear isn't exhibiting backlash if it is you will need to go back to the previous step and make sure the acetal and pinion gear are fully meshed before fastening the aero sink in place.
18. Place the fan on top of the heatsink fins with the sticker side facing towards the fins.
Fasten the fan in place using x4 self-tapping screws
Do not over tighten the screws as this may lead to cracks forming.
Make sure there is adequate airflow over the heatsink. If your printer setup blocks the fan, you'll have issues with heat creep.
19. If you're printing 1.75mm filament you can guide it a little better by putting a length of PTFE tubing in the top of the idler lever.
20. Hot tightening is the last mechanical step and is essential in order to seal the nozzle and heatbreak together ensuring molten plastic doesn't leak out of the HotEnd in use.
Using the printers control software or LCD set the temperature to 285°C and wait for roughly one minute for all the components to equalise in temperature.
Gently tighten the nozzle whilst holding the heater block still with a spanner to tighten the nozzle.
You want to aim for 3N.m of torque on the nozzle.