- Be aware of your electronics. Don't work on your printer while it is plugged in or turned on.
- Be aware when you heat up your new HotEnd not to burn yourself on the heater block nozzle or heater cartridge.
- The standard V6 is capable of printing up to 300°C, do not exceed these temperatures unless you have replaced the relevant components. Please see the V6 Max Temperature Rating Guide for more information.
- The firmware modification is not optional. It is a mandatory step. For more information please see: V6 Firmware Guides
- Make sure you have ordered and received the correct voltage heater and fan to match the power supply of your printer. All of our current heater cartridges should have the voltage and wattage laser engraved on the cartridge.
- Connecting 12v parts to a 24v power supply can result in overheating, component damage, or fire. If you are unsure double-check the rating on your power supply.
- Your HotEnd and your printer are your responsibility. We cannot be held responsible for damages caused by the use, misuse or abuse of our products.
1. Screw the nozzle into the heater block, ensure this is done from the side with 3 holes otherwise the assembly will fail later on.
The above image shows the same step from different perspectives.
2. Screw in the V6 HeatBreak, make sure the assembly is only finger tight at this point in time. Aim to have the top of the HeatBreak flush with the top surface of the HeaterBlock.
Before moving onto the next step check that the nozzle and break are in the correct position as per the above images.
If the nozzle is fastened up against the HeaterBlock at this stage you will run a significant risk of not creating a seal during the hot tightening process which will lead to molten plastic leaking from the assembly.
3. Slide the thermistor into the HeaterBlock fastening it with an M3 grub screw.
Be careful not to over tighten as you will risk crushing the internal glass bead.
4. Slide in the HeaterCartridge and fasten with the M3 Dome head screw.
Deformation of the HeaterBlock is to be expected and ensures good surface area contact for efficient thermal transfer.
Before installing the heater cartridge it’s a good idea to double-check you are using the correct heater for the power supply you are using. The cartridge should be engraved with both the voltage and wattage, but it’s still worth double-checking with a multimeter:
- A 12V 30W heater cartridge will read between 4.2 - 5.7 Ω.
- A 12V 40W heater cartridge will read between 3.1 - 3.8 Ω.
- A 24V 30W heater cartridge will read between 16.7 - 22.6 Ω.
- A 24V 40W heater cartridge will read between 12.3 - 15.1 Ω.
If your heater cartridge is reading out of specification contact
email@example.com, do not attempt to heat up the heater cartridge if the reading is unexpected.
5. Slide the silicone sock onto the HeaterBlock,
6. Apply thermal paste to the long section of the HeatBreak only.
Do not apply the paste to the hot (short) section of the HeatBreak.
If you have run out of thermal paste or are performing maintenance replacement paste can be purchased here. Alternatively, any CPU thermal paste can be used.
7. Screw the V6 HotSide into the V6 heatsink.
8. Insert the black collet into the top of the heatsink.
Slide in the PTFE tubing all the way down until it bottoms out on the top of the HeatBreak.
Slide in the collet clip between the collet lip and the aluminium to lock the PTFE tube in place.
Make sure you have cut the PTFE tube square before inserting into the heatsink.
9. Screw the x4 self-tapping plastic screws through the fan into the fan duct, this may require a lot of torque therefore using a well-fitting screwdriver will help.
Make sure the sticker side of the fan is facing towards the heatsink if the sticker is showing on the same side as the screw heads you will need to disassemble and rotate the fan.
10. Clip the fan duct assembly onto the heatsink, the overhang (facing upwards in the above image) can face either up or down depending on your setup.
11. Connect the extension wires to both the thermistor and fan, this provides additional length making it easier to connect to your mainboard, whilst providing a quick release for maintenance or replacements.
12. The final step is to hot tighten the unit.
Using the onboard LCD heat the V6 up to 285°C (or if printing at higher temperatures 20°C above the temperature you plan on printing at) wait roughly a minute at 285°C to allow the different materials to equalise in temperature.
13. Using a 7mm spanner and an adjustable wrench tightening the unit.
You are aiming for 2Nm of torque here; if you apply too much pressure at this stage, you will risk shearing either the Nozzle or HeatBreak. If you are concerned, we recommend the use of a torque wrench set to 2Nm.
The V6 assembly is now complete. Visit the firmware guide to prepare your printer for its new V6 HotEnd.