This mount adaptor will result in -25mm from the X and Y build volume for the full range of motion check out this CR10 mount.
- Be aware of your electronics. Don't work on your printer while it is plugged in or turned on.
- Be aware when you heat up your new HotEnd not to burn yourself on the heater block nozzle or heater cartridge.
- The standard Hemera is capable of printing up to 285°C, do not exceed these temperatures unless you have replaced the relevant components. Please see the Hemera Max Temperature Rating Guide for more information.
- The firmware modification is not optional it is a mandatory step, For more information please see: Hemera Firmware Guides
- Make sure you have ordered and received the correct voltage heater and fan to match the power supply of your printer. All of our current heater cartridges should have the voltage and wattage laser engraved on the cartridge.
- Connecting 12v parts to a 24v power supply can result in overheating, component damage, or fire. If you are unsure double check the rating on your power supply.
- Your HotEnd and your printer are your responsibility. We cannot be held responsible for damages caused by the use, misuse or abuse of our products.
The fan duct is a remix of the Permanoob version that can be found here.
x5 M3x5 socket head screws
x6 M3x6 socket head screws
x6 M3 square nuts
x2 M2.5x10 screw (supplied with bl touch)
x2 M2.5 hex nuts
x3 M3x8 screws
x2 M3x5 screws
x1 M3x18 screw
1. Turn off the power and unplug the kettle lead.
Do not attempt disassembly when the hotend is still hot.
Do not attempt disassembly when the printer is connected to a power source.
2. Remove the x2 M3 dome head screws that fasten the plastic cover to the hotend mount. These are accessed from the back of the mount.
3. Remove the cover from the mount. It is expected that there will be some resistance, there are some plastic clips that require a little force to overcome.
The part cooling and heatsink fan should also pull away at this stage. Let it rest at this point as there are a couple of options regarding the wiring loom later on.
4. Remove the PTFE from both the hotend and extruder.
5. Remove the x2 M3 x 10 dome head screws that fasten the heatsink to the mounting bracket.
Similarly to the two fans leave these hanging.
|A. Extruder motor cable||E. Z endstop|
|B. Heater cartridge||F. Temperature sensor (hotend)|
|C. Part cooling fan||G. Bl touch pins|
|D. Heatsink cooling fan|
When it comes to the wiring there are a number of possible choices. Internally at E3D we often choose to have a break in the wiring loom to make changing HotEnds, Extruders or switching out components as easy as possible. Dupont and Molex Connectors work well for this application. However, ultimately this is down to your level of confidence.
Double-check to make sure the power lead is disconnected from mains and the printer is turned off before making ANY modifications to the electronics.
6.1. Complete wiring replacement - This involves removing the old temperature sensor, heater cartridge extruder motor cable, part cooling fan and heatsink fan and disconnecting the pre-existing wires from the board, replacing them all with the supplied E3D parts. The board connections may not be perfectly matched and a dab of hot glue may be required to ensure a solid connection.
6.2. Patchwork replacement - This involves cutting the pre-existing wiring loom and soldering the E3D components onto the loom, this maintains the existing wiring loom and connections to the board (as long as you match the components and wires.)
6.3. Quick disconnect - This involves cutting the pre-existing wiring loom, but instead of soldering on the E3D components, using connectors to allow for future modifications. This is great if you plan to switch up your configuration often but does make the finished result slightly more messy than the previous two.
7. Print out the x3 printed parts:
8.1 Gather a fully assembled Hemera (if you have not already done so follow this guide
8.2 Optionally gather a Bl touch
9. Check you are prepped for assembly and that the carriage is correctly tensioned (if it is slightly loose adjust the eccentric nut on the bottom wheel)
If you have been using the printer for a while check the general health of the wheels, if they appear to have a lot of wear you may want to consider replacing them before continuing the build.
9.2 Regardless of the wiring method chosen you may find it easier to leave the wiring loom loose at this point. It is also possible to complete the assembly whilst the electric components are attached to the Hemera however for the sake of clarity in the guide it will be assumed you attach the electronics later on.
10. Fasten Ender_3_V2_Part_A to the mounting bracket using x3 M3 x 5mm screws. The third screw that goes through the clearance hole in the mount requires an M3 nut to provide some additional rigidity.
The above images show the same step from different perspectives.
11. Insert x3 M3 Square nuts into the slots in Ender_3_V2_Part_A
12. Fasten Ender_3_V2_Part_B to the square nuts in the Hemera motor t slots.
The mount has been designed to use the supplied M3 x 8 screws if you use longer screws you will risk breaking the t slots.
13. If you plan on using a bl touch this is the point to fasten it to the bracket using x2 M2.5 dome head screws and x2 M2.5 hex nuts.
14. Fasten the two mount halves together using x3 M3 x 8 screws.
15. Fasten the Duct to the front t slots of the Hemera using x2 M3 x 5mm screws.
16. Fasten the 50 x 50 x 15 blower fan to the duct using 1x M3 x 18 screw
17. at this point you are mostly done, you just need to connect up the electric components if they are not already prepped. If you are unsure where these need to be connected please refer back to the Hemera Assembly instructions.
Before you attempt to Heatup or print with your setup make sure you have made the necessary modifications to the firmware: