Safety Caution
- Be aware of your electronics. Don't work on your printer while it is plugged in or turned on.
- Be aware when you heat your new HotEnd not to burn yourself on the heater block nozzle or heater cartridge.
- The standard Hemera can print up to 285°C, do not exceed these temperatures unless you have replaced the relevant components. Please see the V6 Max Temperature Rating Guide for more information.
- The firmware modification is not optional. It is a mandatory step. For more information, please see V6 Firmware Guides.
- Make sure you have ordered and received the correct voltage heater and fan to match your printer's power supply. All of our current heater cartridges should have the voltage and wattage laser engraved on the cartridge.
- Connecting 12v parts to a 24v power supply can result in overheating, component damage, or fire. If you are unsure double check the rating on your power supply.
- Your HotEnd and your printer are your responsibility. We cannot be held responsible for damages caused by the use, misuse or abuse of our products.
Printed Parts
The fan duct is a remix of the Permanoob version that can be found here.
Print recommendations:
Layer height: 0.2
Infill: 25%
Material: PLA/PETG/ABS/ASA
Additional Parts
Disassembly
1. Turn off the power and unplug the kettle/ IEC lead.
Do not attempt disassembly when the hot end is still hot.
Do not attempt disassembly when the printer is connected to a power source.
2. Remove the Bowden (PTFE) tube from both the extruder and hotend.
3. Unscrew the X4 M2 x 8mm screws that fasten the Part cooling fan onto the hotend carriage.
Leave the part cooling fan loose for now. There are several options available later regarding wiring.
4. Unscrew the x2 M3 x 5 screws that fasten the hotend cover in place using a 2mm hex key.
Again due to the attached hotend fan you will need to leave this part loose for the time being, this will be addressed later on.
5. Unscrew the x2 M3 x 16 screws that fasten the heatsink to the x carriage using a 2mm hex key.
Leave the HotEnd loose at this point, the wiring options will be addressed later on.
Wiring
When it comes to the wiring there are a number of possible choices. Internally at E3D we often choose to have a break in the wiring loom to make changing HotEnds, Extruders or switching out components as easy as possible. Dupont and Molex Connectors work well for this application. However, ultimately this is down to your level of confidence.
Double-check to make sure the power lead is disconnected from mains and the printer is turned off before making ANY modifications to the electronics.
Recommended methods:
6.1. Complete wiring replacement - This involves removing the old temperature sensor, heater cartridge extruder motor cable, part cooling fan and heatsink fan and disconnecting the pre-existing wires from the board, replacing them all with the supplied E3D parts. The board connections may not be perfectly matched and a dab of hot glue may be required to ensure a solid connection.
6.2. Patchwork replacement - This involves cutting the pre-existing wiring loom and soldering the E3D components onto the loom, this maintains the existing wiring loom and connections to the board (as long as you match the components and wires.)
6.3. Quick disconnect - This involves cutting the pre-existing wiring loom, but instead of soldering on the E3D components, using connectors to allow for future modifications. This is great if you plan to switch up your configuration often but does make the finished result slightly more messy than the previous two.
Assembly
7. Print out the x2 printed parts:
The fan duct is a remix of the Permanoob version that can be found here.
8.1 Gather a fully assembled Hemera (if you have not already done so follow this guide
8.2 Optionally gather a Bl touch
9.1 Check you are prepped for assembly and that the carriage is correctly tensioned (if it is slightly loose adjust the eccentric nut on the bottom wheel)
If you have been using the printer for a while check the general health of the wheels, if they appear to have a lot of wear you may want to consider replacing them before continuing the build.
9.2 Regardless of the wiring method chosen you may find it easier to leave the wiring loom loose at this point. It is also possible to complete the assembly whilst the electric components are attached to the Hemera however for the sake of clarity in the guide it will be assumed you attach the electronics later on.
10. Undo the top x2 wheel assemblies using an 8mm spanner and a 3mm hex key.
11. Undo the bottom wheel assembly using an 8mm spanner and a 3mm hex key.
12. Place the printed bracket on top of the x carriage and fasten it in place using the same x2 top wheel assemblies with an 8mm spanner and 3mm hex key.
13. Fasten the bottom wheel assembly through the bottom hole in the mounting bracket using an M3 hex key and an 8mm socket wrench.
Use a spanner on the eccentric nut to increase the tension if the assembly is loose at this point. It can also be adjusted at any point in time in the future.
14. Fasten Hemera to the mount using x3 M3 x 8mm with a 2.5mm hex key.
The spacing thickness of the mounting bracket aims to be 5mm if your part comes out dramatically thinner you may run into issues with the screws bottoming out. If you suspect this starting to happen remove the screws and look for signs of scraping inside the slot. Do not attempt to overtighten as this will lead to the t slots cracking.
15. Fasten the part cooling fan duct to the front face of Hemera with x2 M3 x 8 screws using a 2.5mm hex key.
16. Fasten the part cooling fan to the duct with x1 M3 x 20mm screw using a 2.5mm hex key.
17. at this point you are mostly done, you just need to connect up the electric components if they are not already prepped. If you are unsure where these need to be connected please refer back to the Hemera Assembly instructions.
18. Before you attempt to Heatup or print with your setup make sure you have made the necessary modifications to the firmware: