You can get yourself an upgrade kit with everything you need to convert your classic Hemera to Revo Hemera here: https://e3d-online.com/products/revo-hemera-upgrade-kit
This guide covers everything you need to know about upgrading your Hemera to Revo!
Before upgrading, please read the following safety cautions.
You will need:
- 2.5mm hex key
- Phillips head screwdriver
- Revo Hemera upgrade kit
Make sure you have removed the filament from the printer and that it is unplugged from the power source.
1. Identify where the heater and thermistor plug into your board and remove them from your wiring loom. If it helps, you can leave both fans plugged in as these will not need replacing.
Remember the location of the heater and thermistor or leave them plugged in until you come to make the swap so that you don't forget their location. If in doubt, refer to the board manufacturers documentation.
2. Remove your existing Hemera from its mount and take off any fan shrouds/probe holders etc.
The square nuts may fall out the mounting slots when loose so watch out for those.
3. Unscrew the heatsink fan
Keep the fan and the screws on hand, you will be reusing them.
4. Remove the two M3 x 20 screws that hold the heatsink.
5. Remove the heatsink. If you are struggling to get it loose, releasing the tension on the idler as you pull it can be helpful. Then set the Motor aside.
When you remove the heatsink, the idler and gears are likely to come away with the heatsink. Don't worry though, we will reposition them when we add the new sink.
6. Press on the idler again and carefully pull the drive gear out
Make sure you don't leave the bearing behind in the old sink. If it does get stuck, wait until you have removed the idler arm and then gently tap on the underside of the heatsink to help dislodge it.
7. Once more, press on the idler arm to release the tension and gently slide it out by applying pressure to the underside.
The spring will probably fall away as you do this, just make sure not to lose it!
8. Set the old empty sink aside, you won't be needing it anymore.
1. Slide the idler arm into the new sink.
Getting the spring into position can be a little tricky, it is easiest to add it as you put the arm back in, rather than adding the arm and then trying to force it into place.
2. Slot the drive gear into position, make sure to release the tension on the idler arm as you do this. Don't forget to put the bearing into the slot in the sink.
Make sure the gear/bearing goes all the way into the slot and isn't misaligned.
3. Attach the sink to the motor, releasing the tension from the idler arm as you do.
Pay close attention to the orientation of the sink. The bearing on the motor face and the axel of the drive gear should line up.
4. Use the two M3 x 20 screws to secure the new heatsink
5. Use the remaining two self-tapping screws to attach the fan to the heatsink. The side of the fan that has the label should be facing the heatsink.
You can rotate the orientation of the fan to position the fan wires in the most convenient location for your wiring.
6. Mount your Revo Hemera back on the printer.
7. Plug the extension cables into the HeaterCore and plug the extension cables into the mainboard. Add the cables into your wiring loom.
The colour of the HeaterCore thermistor wire has recently changed from white to blue. If your HeaterCore has a white thermistor cable. Please refer to the diagram below.
You should already have the correct steps, motor current, motor direction and maximum temperature.
If you don't already have these set, you can find our Revo Hemera specific firmware guides here.
The X and Y offsets will also remain the same but you will need to change your Z offset as the Revo is around 2mm longer.
The Z offset of your Nozzle will have changed by around 2mm. It is essential that you take this into account or you risk crashing the nozzle into the bed.
There are a number of ways you can account for this 2mm difference:
By adjusting the position of your z end stop or z probe.
By manually lowering your bed around 2mm and re-levelling.
By printing an adjusted mount.
You should PID tune before starting your first print, we have specific guides on how to do this here.